ww2dodge.com Forum

Does anyone have any tips for bleeding the brakes on a WC63? I installed a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders and have bled the brakes several times, but I still have air in the lines and have to pump the brakes to get a firm brake petal.

To get back to basics, are you sure you have the shoe adjustments correct as in minimum clearance between shoe and drum? With 2 more wheel cylinders than the 4x4 and the same master cylinder you must get that right otherwise the first pump on the pedal is merely taking up the gaps.
For this reason the 6x6 brakes do tend to be a little more problematic than the 4x4.

David

Double check all the fittings, unions, lines, etc for leaks, especially the brass block at the wheel cylinder. I just went through this and found I had used two large copper crush washers at the right rear wheel; this was causing a leak. Then, use Teflon pipe thread tape on the threads of the bleed screw to prevent air leakage; with this done you block the pedal down with a piece of wood, and use 2 or 3 feet of clear plastic tubing, held up...yes up. When you crack the bleed screw the tube will fill up with fluid and bubbles. The bubbles will rise up the tube and the fluid will settle. Close the bleed screw, release the pedal, check the master cyl fluid, and repeat until no bubbles come out. This took me an hour or so, but I was able to successfully bleed my brakes without a helper.

I used to bleed the brakes the old fashioned way. Broke down and bought a $30 brake bleeder and took all the guess work out of the procedure. Really handy piece of kit.

Hi
I got the same problems and it took me several times until I got rid of the air. Reason is that the bubbles are not floating automatically to the exit when you are bleeding. Driving between bleeding helps to get them moving.
Cheers Michael