ww2dodge.com Forum

Does anybody know if there is a TM just for the body and sheet metal
for a WC 21 / 22 , I just received TM 10-1123 / 1443 and TM 10-1442
manuals and they both are very limited on procedures for mounting
the cab , body parts , ect. hoping there is a publication with detail for
the way the factory put it all together . Thanks , Kris

I've got nothing

All the manuals could be considered poor for this. There will be a TM somewhere for bodywork repair and maintenance, but it will be very general and is very unlikely to have anything Dodge-specific in it.

That said, there are few issues in re-assembling a Dodge. There is a method for getting the assembly and relationship of the front end panels correct, and there are techniques for adjusting door hinges ( actually in the manual ) and similar techniques for things like tailgates and lift gates.

All these trucks bodies were designed to be flung together and work, and they do.

Thanks Gordon , Guess what I'm really after is detail on mounting the open cab WC 21 / 22
( same cab I know ) seems to me there are wood spacer blocks between the cab and frame
my 21 only has really thick rubber pads ( like a piece of a tire cut-out ) since I bought it .

midwest military makes the blocks, call johnny B and ask him.

BB

krisinwa.st. wrote:Thanks Gordon , Guess what I'm really after is detail on mounting the open cab WC 21 / 22
( same cab I know ) seems to me there are wood spacer blocks between the cab and frame
my 21 only has really thick rubber pads ( like a piece of a tire cut-out ) since I bought it .

Being a Dodge, you just lift it up and throw it on

The only thing you have to remember is the full sized cab bolt goes next to the drivers feet, the undersized bolts go in the other three holes. Fitment and alignment of all the other front end metal is very straightforward. As Brian says, Midwest has hardware if required.

Hi Gordon, you say there is a method for getting the relationship between the font panels sorted, I would be very grateful if someone had a copy of this they could share as the relationship between the bonnet (hood) and scuttle (bulkhead/firewall) and radiator cowl on my WC 53 is pretty aweful

Cheers
Ian

G,Day again Ian . Try loosening up the radiator support bolts at the bottom . You will then be able to move the rad support a little bit . A small amount in one spot = a larger amount somewhere else . It is all trial and error on most WC,s .Try for the best compromise . Ray

Ian Jamieson wrote:Hi Gordon, you say there is a method for getting the relationship between the font panels sorted, I would be very grateful if someone had a copy of this they could share as the relationship between the bonnet (hood) and scuttle (bulkhead/firewall) and radiator cowl on my WC 53 is pretty aweful

Cheers
Ian

It isn't that difficult when you know how Ian.

1. Remove the front wings, bonnet, inner fender panels. Not loosen, take them off.

2. Loosen the two big nuts underneath the radiator mount, and all the lock nuts on the radiator to cowl brace rods.

3. Drop the bonnet in place, adjust the brace rods so the relationship between the cowl, bonnet, and radiator shell is REALLY nice. ( The body can move around a lot when the hold down bolts are loose - in extreme cases you may have to loosen up the cab or bodyshell hold down bolts to get this relationship right. )

4. When you have the cowl / bonnet / radiator shell relationship absolutely right, tighten up the brace rod lock nuts, the two nuts under the radiator shell, and the bonnet hinge screws.

( this is a great time to set those tappets if it needs doing )

5. Refit inner fender panels. You can be quite rough and just persuade them to fit.

6. Refit front wings and enjoy.

On my WC63 I had to instal a rubber packing in one side of the radiator mount to get the bonnet gaps even. Nothing else I tried would work. Had to also loosen the top radiator hose whilst adjusting.
On 3/4 and 1-1/2 ton trucks the large anchor bolt at the drivers feet has no spring, the other three do. I would guess that this also applies to the half ton trucks.

David

motto wrote:On my WC63 I had to instal a rubber packing in one side of the radiator mount to get the bonnet gaps even. Nothing else I tried would work. David

Your truck had been hit on the front then. Any time you have the radiator and radiator shell off you should check the riveted bracket that supports it. Any damage to the front of the truck normally knocks it out of line, off square, loose, or all three.

Just check that bracket front to back and side to side for level, and give it a tug to make sure the rivets aren't loose ( if they are them just weld the bracket to the frame ) If it is bent or off square hit with large hammer till it is square and level again.

I've never seen a Dodge frame that wouldn't respond if you had to re-shape it a little, and these techniques are all standard that the vehicle mechanics of the day would be well-versed in. None of the modern people would have a clue though.

My weakness is trying to heat shrink or stretch sheet metal to stop it oil-canning. I always end up slitting it and doing a neat weld repair instead.

You are probably right Gordon, I had a bit of a struggle to install the winch and bumpers but it all looks good and performs as it should so I'm happy with it.

David

Thanks Gordon and others, once I'm allowed back into the shed, I have some work to do

Ian

Ian Jamieson wrote:Thanks Gordon and others, once I'm allowed back into the shed, I have some work to do

Ian

Easy enough Ian, no real heavy lifting - fenders maybe. The thing everyone gets wrong is to try to adjust everything at once, and there is insufficient movement in all of it.

Once you realise that the three critical components are cowl, bonnet, and radiator shell, and set them correctly, the rest (literally) falls into place.

Next time you have to build one from the chassis up you will find that you do this automatically and it just ends up right first time. Similar advice can be found for the tailgate / liftgate if those are not fitting well on your truck too