ww2dodge.com Forum

Hey Steve,

Good to see you are making progress, I did try to call you but ???

PM me , I have some goodies you might like .....


Eric..

Guys,

Looking for suggestions on splitting the engine and trans. Today I was able to get them to start coming apart, slightly (maybe 1/4" or 5mm), but getting much headway is difficult, at best. I'm using a floor jack under the trans, and have the engine (barely) bolted in the frame, or perhaps I should say rebolted in the frame, as I needed something solid to push against. is this just a case of man-up and force them apart, or is there some pitfall to the process.

My goal is to get the engine to the machine shop...

Thanks,
Steve

remove the cover separating the tranny and engine. should be a few bolts. should slid easier out. Don't use any chisels or anything to pry it apart or you may crack and break pieces off. I learned the hard way on a 1940 dated tranny

Mark,

Thanks for the tip - yesterday I was wearing out my screwdriver and an 8" prybar, so will get after those small bolts you mentioned. Didn't see/hear evidence of any damage (I was trying to be relatively gentle), but will take a close look today.

Thanks for the tip!
Steve

Here's a pic of the latest update - engine/trans removed on 2 October. Will get the engine to the machine shop soon, and hope that won't be too traumatic a bill. No apparent damage to trans or clutch housing from separating them (ended up using a come-along to make the initial separating, but figured that would spread the load more than a prying device).


This brake line routing doesn't seem original to me, & suggests some of it's civilian use into the 50s:


Steve

That looks right. It does a circle before the master cylinder.

Well, that's a little embarrassing to know I just stuck my foot in my mouth, but seems like I often learn that way! Also makes me glad that I didn't chuck the old one, so I can duplicate it with the new brake lines...

The reinforced line which I found across the front crossmember was interesting - that wire wrap was unexpected, and (I assume) a marker of originality. Is that reinforced line available through any of the regular supply sources?

Steve

Midwest and VPW both sell new fuel and brake lines. Hardware stores due sell iron tubing if you want to make your own. Don't use brass.

yes the anti rub wire wrap is original.
If you click on the pic you can see the album.
BB

Gents,

Can this rust in the frame rail be cut out and patched, or is the frame toast? It's under the bracket which mounts the front end of the left rear springs. The bracket was riveted to the frame, but I punched the rivets due to the rusted out crossmember behind...you can sorta see in the 2d pic. I found it while punching rivets to replace the rusty crossmember pictured early in the topic.

On the other hand, I know where there's another frame, in good shape, which isn't too expensive.

Thanks for your input,
Steve

If it is the original frame for the truck I'd happlity cut and patch it, but a VERY STRONG patch comes to mind. I take it you have checked the other end of the crossmember and it is OK?

This is a common problem with that particular configuration of crossmember. It fills up with c!"p, which then gets wet, and traps rust in both sides. It normally just eats away at the sides of the crossmember and you get a line of rust or weakness.

My normal procedure is to dig out all the accessible c!"p, then flush it all out with a hose, then assess the sides of the crossmember at each end by dinging them with a hammer (not very scientific I know)

If any of the four normal spots go 'clunk' instead of 'ding' I just cut back into them with a grinder until I find solid and plate up with metal about twice as thick as the original.

I've never seen a chassis side that rusty, but then I've never thought to take the spring hanger bracket off any of the ones I've done. A good job of plating is normally adequate for this repair, as it is mostly flat and the rust tends to be concentrated in four sports rather than all over the item.

Gordon, thanks for your FAST response!

I haven't yet inspected the far side in any detail - it's hangar bracket is still semi-solidly attached. It was time to quit last night, and I was just sick finding this rust, but am encouraged by your response. I've got the frame rails which came from the donor crossmember, and that might be the source for the patch!

Anybody else?

Thanks again,
Steve

Hello all,

I see nobody answered the question about the engine block "cosmetic flaw" I have the same thing on my WC-51 T214 block, and I was under the impression that this was a frost crack and because of it my block was unservicable. Does anyone have more info on this? The farmer that I got the truck from stated that there was no leak coming from this "crack"

See photo:

Henrik,

You're right - mine WAS a freeze crack, and my machine shop said it was repairable, but he wouldn't guarantee it. Reason was that when torquing the head back onto the engine, it'd pull the welded block parts apart and the crack would reappear.

I found a replacement block, which is currently being machined (.060 over on cylinders, .020 over on mains, valve seats, valves, etc.)

Have you seen your engine run, to verify the farmer's story? Good luck with yours!

Steve

I know the conventional wisdom: WC-1's did not leave the continental US (or at least not with US forces, see the Australian WC-1's above).
Did anyone watch "WWII in HD" last month? I saw pieces of footage showed 1/2 Dodges (weapons carriers and command cars) in the Pacific, mostly with Marines? Were my eyes playing tricks on me?