Hi folks,
I was scratching around under the WC 57 today. I have 2 universal joints with excessive side clearance in the yokes, 1 is the front shaft where it connects to the front diff, the other is the rear shaft where it connects to the transfer case. In both instances the side clearance is in the U clamp type yokes (with the 5/16" bolt through them) and NOT the press fit in the drive shaft ends. Both joints are relatively new. Its almost as though the drive & driven yokes have "spread" slightly. Has anyone else had this problem???
Cheers
Ian J
Drive Shaft U/J
-
- Technician 3rd Grade
- Posts: 382
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 4:27 am
- My garage: 1942 Dodge WC 53
1941 Willys MB
1960 M38A1 Nekaf - Location: New Zealand
Drive Shaft U/J
1942 Dodge WC 53
1941 Willys MB
1960 M-38A1 Nekaf
1941 Willys MB
1960 M-38A1 Nekaf
-
- Technician 4th Grade
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 2:04 am
- My garage: M37
- Location: Anacortes, WA
- Contact:
Re: Drive Shaft U/J
Don't the yoke castings have edges limiting how far the cups can move outward? I'm pretty sure mine did.
-jim lee
-jim lee
-
- Technical Sergeant
- Posts: 1864
- Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2010 6:06 am
- My garage: Restored Old Henry, and have had this WC51 on the road around 3 years now... Currently finishing a brace of Ben Hur trailers, and starting a 67 Galaxie fastback. Concurrent with the WC I restored a 74 TR6... Oh the joys.
Re: Drive Shaft U/J
The U-joints have a c-clip on them for that purpose: I found that some of the c-clips on the repro ones are NOT the proper fit to the groove, and this gives a hair of slop to them, allowing the cap to move in the yoke end. I used .040 stainless safety wire between the c-clip and the inner edge of the groove, pulled very tight, with only a very small pigtail does a dandy job of shimming. Best bet is find some original c-clips for installation.jim lee wrote:Don't the yoke castings have edges limiting how far the cups can move outward? I'm pretty sure mine did.
-jim lee
Scott
Socialism only works until you run out of other people's money. M. Thatcher...
10/42 WC-51 "Old Henry" (In Memory of Henry McBride)
11/73 (1974MY) Triumph TR6
01/91 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat XC/LB
2003 Ford P-71 exFHP
1967 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback
10/42 WC-51 "Old Henry" (In Memory of Henry McBride)
11/73 (1974MY) Triumph TR6
01/91 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat XC/LB
2003 Ford P-71 exFHP
1967 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback
-
- Technician 3rd Grade
- Posts: 382
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 4:27 am
- My garage: 1942 Dodge WC 53
1941 Willys MB
1960 M38A1 Nekaf - Location: New Zealand
Re: Drive Shaft U/J
Hi Jim,
Scott is correct, the bearing cup has a "C" type snap ring that limits its side ways movement.
Scott, I will try the lock wire trick and see how that works.
Cheers
Ian
Scott is correct, the bearing cup has a "C" type snap ring that limits its side ways movement.
Scott, I will try the lock wire trick and see how that works.
Cheers
Ian
1942 Dodge WC 53
1941 Willys MB
1960 M-38A1 Nekaf
1941 Willys MB
1960 M-38A1 Nekaf
-
- Technical Sergeant
- Posts: 1515
- Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:47 pm
- Location: Allyn WA
Re: Drive Shaft U/J
maybe measure the clearance from side to side on a yoke with no slop then check sloppy ones. if the same then maybe you have the wrong ujoints? maybe newer have the snap ring groove in slightly wrong place? buy some NOS of ebay? they are still out there.
it would be nice to find some NOS snap rings with the loop in them for the connecting wire that keeps caps from falling off during servicing.
it would be nice to find some NOS snap rings with the loop in them for the connecting wire that keeps caps from falling off during servicing.
-
- Technician 3rd Grade
- Posts: 382
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 4:27 am
- My garage: 1942 Dodge WC 53
1941 Willys MB
1960 M38A1 Nekaf - Location: New Zealand
Re: Drive Shaft U/J
Hi,
as I had a bunch of spare U/J clamps, I washed them all up then sorted through to find the best. I then used these, and tightened the through bolts while compressing the bearing cups. No more side movement.
Thanks to all who replied.
Cheers
Ian
as I had a bunch of spare U/J clamps, I washed them all up then sorted through to find the best. I then used these, and tightened the through bolts while compressing the bearing cups. No more side movement.
Thanks to all who replied.
Cheers
Ian
1942 Dodge WC 53
1941 Willys MB
1960 M-38A1 Nekaf
1941 Willys MB
1960 M-38A1 Nekaf
-
- Technical Sergeant
- Posts: 1864
- Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2010 6:06 am
- My garage: Restored Old Henry, and have had this WC51 on the road around 3 years now... Currently finishing a brace of Ben Hur trailers, and starting a 67 Galaxie fastback. Concurrent with the WC I restored a 74 TR6... Oh the joys.
Re: Drive Shaft U/J
I am having the same issue with my front cups- I hadn't checked them when I did the rear... I just don't remember if i scrapped my old u-joints et al last year or not! So I am looking through stuff in the garage, but will probably use my wire trick for now...
Scott
Scott
Socialism only works until you run out of other people's money. M. Thatcher...
10/42 WC-51 "Old Henry" (In Memory of Henry McBride)
11/73 (1974MY) Triumph TR6
01/91 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat XC/LB
2003 Ford P-71 exFHP
1967 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback
10/42 WC-51 "Old Henry" (In Memory of Henry McBride)
11/73 (1974MY) Triumph TR6
01/91 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat XC/LB
2003 Ford P-71 exFHP
1967 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback
-
- Technical Sergeant
- Posts: 1864
- Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2010 6:06 am
- My garage: Restored Old Henry, and have had this WC51 on the road around 3 years now... Currently finishing a brace of Ben Hur trailers, and starting a 67 Galaxie fastback. Concurrent with the WC I restored a 74 TR6... Oh the joys.
Re: Drive Shaft U/J
I just finished a little empirical research- It has been noted that there is some play to the bearing caps on the replacement U-joints from the usual sources. I myself have noted some movement within the yoke area from a sliding u-joint, and this can cause drivability issues, as well as potential damage... This movement is caused by a problem with the snap rings & grooves in the bearing cap...
I found that using a piece of .040 safety wire, tightly pulled between the inner side of the slot and the snap ring, that it would shim it enough to tighten everything up properly. I dd this to my rear driveshaft a few months ago, but am just getting around to doing the front driveshaft, which was decidedly loose.
While I had it out, I managed to find four original U-joint caps, complete with original c-clips. As suspected, there is some difference. Unsuspected was the difference in the slot I noted
The original clip averages about .094" thick: (This is an average of about 6 different measurements (each) on 4 original, used clips)The original groove on the cap is 0.110" wide, for a clearance between the two of .016" and a cumulative of .032". The new clips are about .073", with the groove 0.116, for a massive clearance on each side of .043! This makes a combined clearance of .086", or just under 1/10th of an inch! No wonder there is so much slop in these u-joints!
I am going to use original clips in the new cap grooves, for a clearance of .022"(. 044 cumulative) or .012 more than originals, yet .021" less (.043" cumulative) than with the new clips. I may still use some .021 safety wire as a shim, but do not think it will really be necessary...
(By "cumulative" I refer to the total movement of the u-joint towards either end cap from all the way one way, to all the way the other.)
These numbers reflect the problem with the caps where they have the attaching clamps- I did not see a need to check the ones which are pressed into the driveshaft side, as they feel tight, with no slip...
I found that using a piece of .040 safety wire, tightly pulled between the inner side of the slot and the snap ring, that it would shim it enough to tighten everything up properly. I dd this to my rear driveshaft a few months ago, but am just getting around to doing the front driveshaft, which was decidedly loose.
While I had it out, I managed to find four original U-joint caps, complete with original c-clips. As suspected, there is some difference. Unsuspected was the difference in the slot I noted
The original clip averages about .094" thick: (This is an average of about 6 different measurements (each) on 4 original, used clips)The original groove on the cap is 0.110" wide, for a clearance between the two of .016" and a cumulative of .032". The new clips are about .073", with the groove 0.116, for a massive clearance on each side of .043! This makes a combined clearance of .086", or just under 1/10th of an inch! No wonder there is so much slop in these u-joints!
I am going to use original clips in the new cap grooves, for a clearance of .022"(. 044 cumulative) or .012 more than originals, yet .021" less (.043" cumulative) than with the new clips. I may still use some .021 safety wire as a shim, but do not think it will really be necessary...
(By "cumulative" I refer to the total movement of the u-joint towards either end cap from all the way one way, to all the way the other.)
These numbers reflect the problem with the caps where they have the attaching clamps- I did not see a need to check the ones which are pressed into the driveshaft side, as they feel tight, with no slip...
Last edited by ng19delta on Sun Nov 12, 2017 5:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
Socialism only works until you run out of other people's money. M. Thatcher...
10/42 WC-51 "Old Henry" (In Memory of Henry McBride)
11/73 (1974MY) Triumph TR6
01/91 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat XC/LB
2003 Ford P-71 exFHP
1967 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback
10/42 WC-51 "Old Henry" (In Memory of Henry McBride)
11/73 (1974MY) Triumph TR6
01/91 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat XC/LB
2003 Ford P-71 exFHP
1967 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback
-
- Technical Sergeant
- Posts: 1515
- Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:47 pm
- Location: Allyn WA
Re: Drive Shaft U/J
that is great research. I always keep original snap rings and the wire in-between when I can anyway. I never measured but you can feel the new ones are a bit thinner.
thanks for doing the home work.
thanks for doing the home work.