Working on the WC...

From VC-1 to WC64-KD.
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ng19delta
Technical Sergeant
Technical Sergeant
Posts: 1864
Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2010 6:06 am
My garage: Restored Old Henry, and have had this WC51 on the road around 3 years now... Currently finishing a brace of Ben Hur trailers, and starting a 67 Galaxie fastback. Concurrent with the WC I restored a 74 TR6... Oh the joys.

Working on the WC...

Post by ng19delta »

Well, with the change in weather this week from cold to pleasant, I actually got the chance to start doing more things on the WC again, after around a two or three year hiatus from major work on it while I got the TR6 up and on the road...

I finished my cab seats for the most part on Saturday- I still need to make a couple slip in plates for the front corners of the passenger seat, to properly shape the canvas-the edging around the base to which the canvas attaches had rotted almost completely away, so I used some sheet metal and 1/8" or 3/16" rod stock to form the lower section: but the front corners did not come out quite perfect where they show, so I want to correct it when I get a chance. Sunday, I finished putting in the seat side bolster pads & covers: I had used a nice set that had been in great shape, but had to replace the snaps, as they did not quite match the locations for my snaps... Just a little off. Now all nice & happy.

I decided to pull & fold the canvas for now, as it makes the garage seem brighter & larger when the light can pass! I also cleaned out the bed of the truck for the most part- It keeps alluviating junk in the garage... I need to pull her out today, & CLEAN the garage behind her... lol...

And yesterday I readjusted the wheel bearings- When I initially set them several years ago, I mis-set them: When I turned the bearing back 1/6th turn after tightening, I inadvertently only went 1/8th turn, as I used a flat for reference- and the nuts are octagonal, rather than hexagonal. So I loosened everything, and shook them out, then tightened the nut; spun the wheel a few times, took the nut tight, then back 1/6th turn, as directed, this time using a corner between flats as a pointer, and two of the six hub studs as reference... I erred a hair to the loose side for fitting the lock plate. I then had to adjust the brake shoes a hair, to remove some excessive brake drag. I think the drums need to be returned with the hubs in them to get a proper trued cut. I may need to just replace them, as I think they were toward the thin side when I last had them cut... Oh, the fun.

While I was doing this, I noticed the front axle turned nice & easily, but the rear did not... I tried jacking both wheels off the ground, and turning one. I expected that because the drive shaft would be the greater drag, I should be able to turn one wheel, and have the other turn opposite easily, due to the differential action. Even with both wheels off the ground, this was not as easy as it should have been- I think I have the diffy too tightly assembled. (I cannot even roll the truck! It will move ok under power, but I used to be able to push her when out of gear.) I am going to pull the rear driveshaft, and then the differential, and see if I can adjust it. Worst comes to worst, I'll run the center member over to the local truck shop for an adjustment.

I also noticed I have several seep leaks- master cylinder, transmission side plates, fuel tank... I am going to look at having Apple Hydraulics sleeve & rebuild the M/C, and see if I can find a company that will clean & cook-coat the fuel tank: I do NOT trust the sloshes- especially with the baffle plates in the tanks- far too much opportunity to clog the passage between the bottom plate and bottom of the tank. And, of course, I am going to drain the transmission & reseal the side plates... Oh, the fun. While I have the differential out, I may weld the cover plate spacer(added previously because someone put in the later, larger ring gear on both) to the plate, and eliminate one sealing issue...

I did a rough readjustment to the regulator- but not before over volting & blowing out my headlight high beams & taillamp... So a bit of readjustment was in order... Seems to have a 4 amp charge, at 7.5v now... It was charging around 60a indicated at first(with a 40a genny!) but some adjustment of the current regulator dropped the amps, and an adjustment of the voltage regulator straightened out the high volts... But I now need new lamps... lol... So Much Fun...

And lastly, I put the repro (Horne) bed dataplate onto the upper corner of the front of the left bed box... Looks good, but was about 1/8" wider, and 1/8" taller than what had been there, judging by the original screw holes. Machts Nichts. I just drilled new holes... lol...

Registered and insured for a year, and we still have not made it out of the drive! Usual run is 25 feet from parked spot in garage & back...

Scott
Socialism only works until you run out of other people's money. M. Thatcher...
10/42 WC-51 "Old Henry" (In Memory of Henry McBride)
11/73 (1974MY) Triumph TR6
01/91 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat XC/LB
2003 Ford P-71 exFHP
1967 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback
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tankdriver
Technician 3rd Grade
Technician 3rd Grade
Posts: 331
Joined: Thu May 15, 2014 11:33 am
My garage: 57mm ATG, M3 Autocar Halftracck, M3A1 Diamond T Halftrack, 43 WC63.
https://wtmvc.shutterfly.com/
Location: Memphis, TN

Re: Working on the WC...

Post by tankdriver »

It's always more to do...... :D
1943 WC63......1942 57mm Anti-Tank

Have owned...M5A1 Stuart

Have Restored...M20

MVPA Member...President West TN Military Vehicle Collectors... https://wtmvc.shutterfly.com/
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