Paint cure time before painting stencils ?

Greg Alexander · Post by **Greg Alexander** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 12:50 am

I am getting ready to paint the exterior of my WC-54. I am using Gillespie paint. I received my stencils from Rick Larsen and in the instructions it says to make sure and allow time for the paint to cure, anywhere from one to three weeks, otherwise the paint mask adhesive may peel the paint upon removal. My vehicle will remain indoors after painting, but how can I be sure that the paint is cured prior to using the paint masks? I really don't want to wait three weeks due to an event that is coming up in May.

I have also read that some aerosal propellants will cause the Gillespie paint to wrinkle.

Does anyone have some tips, good or bad experience they could share.

Man, I don't want to screw this up after working on the ambulance for 2 years.

Thanks

Greg

Mark Cook · Post by **Mark Cook** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:58 am

Greg,
There are a lot of variables, but if use your better judgement you should be OK.
Give the paint a couple of days to dry for sure.
Use either the green or blue masking tape. (it's less sticky than normal tape).
Also use multiple light coats of the white paint instead of one heavy application. Your paint underneath will be less likely to do strange things.
Most importantly, take your time.
Good Luck.
Mark

Ugg · Post by **Ugg** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 10:59 am

Greg:

DO AS RICK SUGGESTS, at the very least, if your not using heat lamps, wait 3 weeks. I'd wait 1 month personally. Gillespie's seems to be a very fragile paint after it's applied. Scrathes very easy. Paint needs to breath, and let fumes out. As that happens, the paint get's harder.

Later

Tom @ Snake River · Post by **Tom @ Snake River** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:04 pm

NAPA flat white was the best which was Martin Senyor. I beleve they have changed to DUPLICOLOR. I have had good luck with the DUPLICOLOR. Just like the other guys said, use multiple light coats, I would wait at least one week. I have propbably done a dozen vehicles with Ricks stencils. The only screw-up that I have ever had was useing the wrong white paint, and it started to lift when I pulled the stencil.

Tom

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 3:07 pm

My $.02.

I have found that white primer works very well, and dries flatter than many flat white spray cans.

Only use BLUE masking take with the lowest adhesion rating. There are at least five different adhesion levels available. Look at the red dots on the side on the package when you are in the store before buying.

Do NOT use the green tape, it is very strong and will take off almost any paint.

Do one of the rear bumpers first. If it does not work as planned, then not a big area to redo.

Synthetic enamal paints take a long time to dry, never cure a 100%. Gillespie is a good quality paint, however, the longer you can wait the better. Good Luck!

Greg Alexander · Post by **Greg Alexander** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 10:38 pm

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I'm really glad you mentioned the blue tape vs the green tape. I would have used the green. YIKES... I have both types so I will use the blue.

That is also a great idea of trying it on one of the rear bumpers. As it looks right now I would be able to allow it to cure for two weeks before stenciling.

Would it help to run the furnace in my shop? I could crank it up to 90+ degrees in there. I could also put fans around the vehicle. I don't know if that would help the cure time or not, so I am open to suggestions.
I am probably spraying this Sunday. (got my fingers crossed)

Greg

Greg Alexander · Post by **Greg Alexander** » Thu May 18, 2006 11:29 pm

OK I decided to give the paint a full month to cure. I had plenty of small things to put on, wire, etc. to keep me busy. Ugg, I can sure see what you were saying about the paint scratching easily. I wish now that I had used a hardener when I painted with the Gillespie paint. Oh well, live and learn.

Three more questions...

1. What is the best way to remove overspray on a flat paint? When I have painted cars I always buffed it off. Naturally I can't do that with Flat OD.

2. What shade of red do I use for the crosses and Cadecus? I have not been able to find a flat red in anything other than a maroon shade.

3. Have you guys used gloss red for the crosses?

Thanks in advance for all of your help

Greg

Mark Cook · Post by **Mark Cook** » Fri May 19, 2006 4:38 am

Greg,
Go to a hobby shop.
You should be able to pick up a small can(s) of flat red paint there.
Since you're just painting the crosses, then you probably won't need more than a couple of cans.
Good Luck,
Mark

Enigma · Post by **Enigma** » Fri May 19, 2006 9:23 pm

I used flat modelers paint for markings!
I think it was Modelmaster paint from Italeri!!!

Instead of spraying I used a roller, looked very good!!!

Ugg · Post by **Ugg** » Tue May 23, 2006 8:49 am

Greg:

Try just soap and water on the overspray, it may work. I'm gonna be using latex on the Beast. I'll keep ya all posted on the outcome.

Later

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue May 23, 2006 12:16 pm

Thanks again for the replies.

I picked up some Rustoleum Flat White and Red paint in quart cans.

Has anyone had problems using Rustoleum Enamel (not in aerosal cans)?

Enigma; I am debating on spraying the markings vs using a foam roller and applying the emblems. My Dad told me that they used to brush or roll over the stencils for the markings on trucks at Ft. Benning during WW2.

Greg

Greg Alexander · Post by **Greg Alexander** » Tue May 23, 2006 12:19 pm

That last post was me... It seems the forum dropped my automatic login.
I haven't had that happen in a long time.

Gordon, are the cookies set to expire after a short time on the forum?

Greg