Problem with loss of power on wc52. Ideas?

Ugg · Post by **Ugg** » Mon May 08, 2006 2:34 pm

Guys:

In the US, ALL the auto manufacture's will VOID your warranty if ya use the stuff. Something about it clogging filters. There are other products that will do what Slick 50 claims but for the life of me, I can't remember their names now.

Later

Tony B · Post by **Tony B** » Mon May 08, 2006 3:57 pm

Hi Ugg the fuel catalyst blocking filters? The experts say they don't work??? I had one in old BL Montego, supposedly a bloody awful car and unconvertable to run on unleaded fuel. Nobody told the engine, it did 120,000 miles till the rest of the car gave up and it was a high miler when I got it. The multispark just boosts the current from the coil by phase delay, works bloody well. Like tin alloy cactalyst it is not a new idea, in fact modern fuel injection engines use the same principle. Thing is it means you don't buy a manufactures high priced junk which has a 90% mark up on it.

Ugg · Post by **Ugg** » Mon May 08, 2006 6:11 pm

Tony:

I'm talking about the Slick 50 oil treatment. I had an old Chevy Suburban. When I got it, it had over 80K. I worked this truck, plowing snow. It had over 500K when I finally got rid of it. The reason was I got lazy and didn't change the plugs one season and they rusted in the block. After using up 2 tanks of gas from the torch, we only got 1 plug out. All I ever did to that thing was change fluids (and plugs) regularly.

Later

Tony B · Post by **Tony B** » Mon May 08, 2006 7:34 pm

Sorry mate, dislicsick reading and typing. I've used Slick in quite a few old vehicles, I like the stuff, does wonders. I reckon most of mine have expired on the warranty front some years ago

It does make a hell of a diffrence in the gear boxes, even clapped out ones change like silk.

DS · Post by DS » Mon May 08, 2006 8:54 pm

Thanks for those pointers. I shall check out the condenser and coil. Probably get new ones just 'for if'. I imagine they wont cost the earth. Dont have a dwell meter, never have and wouldnt know what to do with it

although I do know what you are refering to. Can a standard electricians avometer be used to check this? As I can borrow one of these, and probably its owner to help out.

Tony B · Post by **Tony B** » Tue May 09, 2006 3:31 am

No standard AVO or other vom won't do it. Set the engine to static timing marks as per manual and do the work from there. Not a bad idea if all the guts have been out of the distributor. Condensers, capacitors can't really be staticlly checked anyway so it would be a good idea to change if suspect.

Laroscout · Post by **Laroscout** » Tue May 09, 2006 8:36 am

We had a situation that sounds a bit like yours in my WC64 this weekend
Engine (T214) wouldn’t start when cold and we had to be push or town it because the 6V battery was flat after starting several times. When running it runs fine for the first minutes. When hot it begins to stall and there was no power in 4th gear, some times it even stopped running. A fuel problem we thought because at first we saw the fuel run back to the fueltank. So we first overruled the fuel filter and then clean the fuelpump. That didn’t solve the problem so we opened the carburettor but that seems ok as well. We drove back 100 miles with a average speed of 30 m/h and on the highway it broke down several times….
I’ll check the same things (ignition/coil) but other Dodge owners think it’s a carburettor problem. This is the first time this problem accursed, the weather was hot so that could play part as well. Any more ideas?

Ugg · Post by **Ugg** » Tue May 09, 2006 11:31 am

Tony:

I know what ya mean about warranty's. To me, a new vehicle has about 70K. In my whole life I've only owned 3 vehicles that had warranties. Of that only one was brandy new (12 miles on the odo), and the warranty never helped me with it's on going problems.

Of the 3, the 1st was the best, and even it had troubles on the way home from the lot. It was a 1967 Buick. That was the fastest car I ever owned. I got nailed by VASCAR (which is impossible to beat) for doin 165 mph in a 70 (I was in a hurry

).

Dunc:

It kind sounds like a vapor lock issue, but the losing power in 4th is throwing me.

Later

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue May 09, 2006 1:09 pm

Laroscout, Have you got the heat gaurd in place? insulating wrap, like the old asbestos stuff round the fuel supply pipes can help this problem. It is a known right ***** on the British Bedford OY and the wrap is standard cure.

Laroscout · Post by **Laroscout** » Tue May 09, 2006 2:37 pm

Ugg wrote: It kind sounds like a vapor lock issue, but the losing power in 4th is throwing me.

It's losing power in general, the engine is acting like it's having hiccups (no fuel) and afther falling down in speed (20-30mph) it runs well again. We also predominate Vapor lock but the other Dodges on the event had the same installation of fuellines and I've the heat shield above the fuelpump. When we inspected the carburetor the valve from the acc.pump was worn, i will replace that but don't think it's the real problem...

Ugg · Post by **Ugg** » Tue May 09, 2006 2:57 pm

Guido:

Hmmmm. Maybe a bad diaphragm or float? I don't think it's electrical, but check them out too. Maybe do a load test on your battery?

Maybe a fuel line collapsing under load? Maybe bad fuel? I just had a similar issue with my back hoe, and it was from bad fuel.

Later

Tony B · Post by **Tony B** » Tue May 09, 2006 5:57 pm

I can't remember if there is a flexipipe in the set up for fuel. But that may well be likley suspect the inside liner can perish acting like a choke vavle. what type of pump do you have on it? the diaphram in them can lose elasticity which isn't obvious to see BUT Having re -read your bit again, and again, We had a similar problem with a vehicle in Normandy a couple of years ago. Despite everything looking like fuel it was electrical in the end.

DODGEWC53 · Post by **DODGEWC53** » Tue May 09, 2006 9:04 pm

Hello

First time on the road after a complete restauration whe had a similar problem. The engine starts and runs fine , but after a mile it suddenly stops. When whe tried to prime the fuelpump it was blocked. Then when loosen the fuelline on the carburator there was no fuel , but just like a sort of vacuum. After checking all the usual things whe discovered that there is a sort of fuelfilter inside the fueltank of the Dodge WC64KD.Whe had to open the tank because that filter was completely blocked with dirt, and there was also a little crack in the fuel line where it enters that filter, so some fuel was allowed to enter the line just enough to start and idle,but not for driving on the road.

Hope that helps.

Laroscout · Post by **Laroscout** » Tue May 09, 2006 11:35 pm

Thanks you for all the tips.
I took some pictures while repairing so that may answer the 'type' questions.

Fuelpump dismanteled

Carburetor headoff

I'll try to solve the problem with all your advise.
Eric is it easy to find that filter in the tank or do I have to take of the tank or the floor panels to get to it?

Tony B · Post by **Tony B** » Wed May 10, 2006 4:34 pm

Good pictures. You have a 2 valve type pump, mine has the other type without the glass. The fuel bowl looks definitly cloudy. A pice of muck the size of a pin head can cause much grief. I would strip the pump and the carb put all the bits in a plastic bag and hose liberally with carb cleaner spray and leave twenty four hours. Then air blow everything. The pump diaphrapham may be worn so I would change. However having said all that. If the muck is in the glass it came from futher down. So a tank clean and new fuel lines, I like the copper nickel not the steel it don't rust, may be a good idea. It really isnt as bad as it sounds and once done is done for a good long time. start at the tank end and work forward, it's easier and cheaper, if the problem solves then the pump refit etc can go on the winter programme. Take any filter on the tank end of the uptake pipe OFF!!!! it's easier and cheaper to use plastic in line filters.