Help reading a rebuild tag...

[Chris Davis]

I'm trying to get the tired engine in my WC-51 to last long enough to do the 4th of July parade. I found that 20w50 oil and STP engine treatment raised the oil pressure. It idled in the driveway for almost an hour without complaint and without overheating. About the time I was ready to drive it around though, it ran out of gas. I didn't immediately realize this was the issue though, and swapped coils and checked point gap, etc before taking the fuel line off the carb and seeing nothing coming out. It sat for a day before I could get more fuel for it, and now it will start, but will not idle and runs rough, requiring almost full choke to run. There is a lope to it that suggests missing on a cylinder, but when I ground out the spark plugs one at a time the lope gets worse on each one, so it is hitting on all cylinders.

I suspect a jet or two are clogged on the carb and I'll be tearing it apart tonight. If anyone has other possibilities I should check I'm all ears.

But... the ground-out-the-spark-plug test reveled the source of a "knock". The knock isn't bad, almost quiet enough for me to suspect a valve being loose... more of a click, click, click. However, when I grounded out the number 6 cylinder this click/tap/knock went away. This points to a loose wrist pin/bearing or rod bearing... right? IF it is a rod bearing, in theory I could replace it just by dropping the pan and rolling in a new bearing. I'd probably just do them all, since bearings are sold in sets... you just can't buy one right? I wouldn't have the crank turned or any real rebuild work done at this time, just a quick and dirty set of bearings.

I would use the same size... and here is the main question... this tag indicates 0.10 oversized rod bearings right? What about the other dimensions? Mains 0.10 oversized too, (meaning the crank was ground 0.10 undersized) but what might the 0.20 and 30 indicate?

Thanks for any advice for a guy with very little rebuild experience...

[Tony B]

I don't know if it sold in the US, but this side of the pond you can get a tempoary piston seal. It is introduced through the plug holes and ups the compression. I wouldn't normally use it but it may give you the 4th July then do the engine change or re-build. It may be worth costing a proffesional engine rebuild rather than replace bits. Reasons being you know what your starting with, you know what you get back and you know your auxillarys all fit. the .20 .30 are oversize marks, sounds like the engine has been through a lot, better to bite the bullet get a pro and a warranty, it could work out cheaper than a lot of fiddling bits and down time.

[Chris Davis]

It looks like I've got a decent replacement motor lined up and I'll probably try and swap that in before the 4th. Then I can take my time with the WWII block.

Take care,

[Mike in VA, USA]

Imagine trying to decipher a rebuild tag written in Dutch. Plenty of German speakers around here, but the only person I could find fluent in Dutch was the elderly wife of a WW2 vet. Engine terminology wasn't her strong point.
The 30 in question seems to have another digit following it which is out of line, and appears to be labelled something "NO."
Happy Independence Day.

[Chris Davis]

I'm glad I don't have to translate it from anything but English.

You make a good observation on the "NO" label. Each stamping box has a printed label above it. The line above starts out with a box that has no readable label left, but then "MAINS U.S." and "RODS U.S." are plain enough. Then the line the 30 is on has "ENGINE NO" and "DATE" So the 30 is some sort of identifying number perhaps?

I have not found a replacement motor yet, but by running an extra thick oil additive I've been able to get this engine to hold oil pressure when warm, and the radiator seems to be keeping up. So we are going to try the 4th of July parade with this motor and maybe rebuild in the winter.

We'll see how it goes.

[Enigma]

Imagine trying to decipher a rebuild tag written in Dutch. Plenty of German speakers around here, but the only person I could find fluent in Dutch was the elderly wife of a WW2 vet. Engine terminology wasn't her strong point.
The 30 in question seems to have another digit following it which is out of line, and appears to be labelled something "NO."
Happy Independence Day.

Hi Mike
I am Dutch!!!!

[Mike in VA, USA]

Then you'll know what a "hoofdlager" is!
I stand in awe of those who are multi-lingual.

[Bert]

Then you'll know what a "hoofdlager" is!
I stand in awe of those who are multi-lingual.

Main Bearing
Another Dutchy over here.

[Enigma]

Bert is right

[rgus]

Chris good luck on your parade. I think I would locate a decent post war engine ,if you can get it right , and, like you said take your time on the WW 2 one. If you do it do it all and then you start with a fresh engine you will never have problems with. Mine had a rebuild tag also unfortunatlly it was aluminum and when the block got it's bath the cleaning fluid ate the aluminum tag. He said he could have taken it off but he didn't realize until it was too late. I wish i had taken a picture of it.