Steering arm screws, studs, or bolts?

[PareosWC]

I'm rebuilding all parts to the knuckles on a 3/4T, and have some oddities on the knuckle

The manual states the 4 main 'bolts' that secure the bearing caps are either screws or bolts, depending on the halves. However, my steering arm (which has ridiculous oblong holes) was secured with (4) studs and nuts??

Studs seem more secure, but are bolts better for that application? What is securing your steering arm to the top half of the knuckle on your Dodge??

[Gordon_M]

I think factory was bolts, but like the jeep cylinder head, the minute anything got worn, skimmed, or reworked in any way they soon figured out that studs with nuts were a better engineering solution. I think the studs were NC into the housing, but NF for the nut threads which is better for torque.

I'd certainly go for studs and nuts unless you need it to look factory. If the holes are egged out, cut and slit short lengths of copper pipe to pad out the gaps rather than depend on the torque to hold them.

[PareosWC]

Gordon, the holes in the knuckle housing look great, but it's the arm itself that has (2) egged holes. The correct procedure is to replace the arm, but a new one is around $60...

[Gordon_M]

Two egged holes shimmed out somehow then ...

[PareosWC]

OK, Gordon- I may have the answer

The top bearing caps were indeed secured with shouldered bolts, but the bottom caps were 'screws'- a shorter bolt, but without the shoulder!

I will definitely go with studs in the top bearing cap that secures the steering arm, though..

[Gordon_M]

Shouldered bolts make sense there if you need a specific stand-off I suppose. I think you are right about the steering arm though.