Removing the rear hub

[WarDog]

Ive got all the brake components in. Have the rear wheel removed. Now how do i remove the rear hub? Anyone have a video or break down. This is all new to me so i wanna learn and do it correctly.

[Lang]

You do not have to remove or disturb the hubs if you are just doing brake work. The brake drums are floating units.

You need to unscrew the countersunk screws situated between the wheel studs with a large flat screwdriver (sometimes you might need an impact driver to get them started). You can find old farm vehicles with all these screws missing - it does not really matter as the wheel and its nuts hold the drum in position. You should replace missing screws as they do hold the drum more accurately centered and prevent slight movement chatter.

Sometimes you can just give the drum a hit and wriggle and it will slide easily off the wheel studs. More likely you will have to use the "puller screws". These bolts might already be sitting in the drum between the wheel studs but if they are missing, as they often are, use any bolts to screw into the 3 holes (not the countersunk screw holes but the larger ones beside them). Progressively turn them until they push the drum away from the face of the wheel hub. Don't forget to wind back or remove those 3 bolts or you will have trouble seating the drum when you screw it back on with the countersunk screws.

Get the drums machined and you are finished ready to reassemble. Note the countersunk screws are off-set so the drum will only go back in one position.

Lang

[PareosWC]

Wardog, did you get it pulled? Here's the layout of the innards...

[WarDog]

No i havent got it pulled had some family issues to come up and had to stop. I will start again after i get back from the VA hospital. Old vet tryn to fix an old vet. I wish my dad could be here. It was meant for him.

[FISCH]

Just did/had mine done.

First I am fortunate in that I found a professional shop where the owner know and works on the old stuff (he grew up with Model Ts and classic cars)

Mine were good and repacked the bearings in accordance with the TM . However, found a wheel cylinder was bad and in that the drums were almost done.

Long story short VPW was great and I may have a line on relineing the original BUDD cast drums. Will let you all know

[PareosWC]

may have a line on relineing the original BUDD cast drums

Are turning these drums difficult, even if they have enough 'meat' on them?

[WarDog]

Ok im confused. After removing the rim, no 3 screws just the drum and 5 studs mounted on a flat round surface that i assume is part of the axle? There are the small studs and 2 threaded holes. I guess those are for inserting the removal bolts in? Is that just a cover for the wheel bearings or is it the axle like on a modern-day dodge 3/4t? Sorry to sound like an idiot but i dont have a shop manual yet and i cant find a garage that will touch it. Also noone will mount tires for me.

[WarDog]

Ok i have the driver side rear axle out and the seal. The large retaining nut is in pretty rough shape so i will need a new 1. Which way does it break loose. L or R ? I watched a video of a wc passenger side and it broke to the left i just want to make sure its not a reverse thread like the wheel studs.

[PareosWC]

A lot of times, those nuts are salvageable. Prior owners loved to use either a screwdriver or chisel to start turning them and then removing them. They're not supposed to be tight! Should be able to remove them by hand- yes, counter-clockwise. Get you the right sized Dodge hub nut socket next time..

[WarDog]

Thank you, i believe you are right. Looks like a chisel has been used. The biggest socket i have is 2 3/8 which was to small. Think it may be a 2 1/2 or 2 5/8. Ive been tryning to google with no luck.

[PareosWC]

John Bizal of Midwest Military has the tool you want...

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... ajaxhist=0

[FISCH]

First, are you using the TM? The process is laid out fairly well.

2nd VPW or Midwest sell the 8 point 3/4 inch drive socket for the hub nut.

3rd. VPW sells replacement nuts for 29.95 each.

4th are you doing the seals and repacking the bearings while it is open?

5th there should be 3 screws that hold the drum to the hub and you will likely have to heat them to get them off. Again the TM is a good resource.

6th if you mess with the seals there should be snap rings holding the inner seals in place, remember previous owners may have taken shortcuts, and maybe not good.

Yes, I found a shop that specializes in re-lining drums for classic cars. They do it for rally cars and the can't find it drums. Remember the two most important things about driving are control and stopping....liability

Issues can do basically everything but a 14 inch drum - not enough demand. But, willing to go there if there is enough of a market.

Background, I just had to replace my drums. VPW has new replacements for $170 each plus shipping.

Issue: we had to cut 0.050 inches off each drum to make true. Not VPWs fault, it is what it is for Chinese manufacture. What it means is that the drums ate really only good for one job then you are done. Is what it is.

My thought: if there is enough interest for the shop to get the form made ...around $2,000 US. Then if the interested parties were willing to pay a bit more to keep there original drums (mine have BUDD casting marks) and a product that will last more than one brake job we as a community could get a new resource. Anyone interested?

[Lang]

Wardog

I must apologise for throwing you into confusion. I believed you had a 3/4 ton vehicle but going back over your posts find you have a !/2ton. The brake drum/hub set up is quite different.

Disregard the brake drum instructions and follow the other fellows who are on top of the game!

Sorry for that.

Lang

[WarDog]

No problem Lang. All is good. I want to thank everyone for helping me. I searched the local auto stores and shops no 8 sided 2 9/16 socket so i oder 1 last night. So at a stand still on that. The old half ton was a wc9. The old farmer said he got it from Ft Knox in 46/47 and used it until about 6 yrs ago.

[WarDog]

Ok i finally got my socket in. The inner bearing was way to tight. I backed the brake shoes off. But the hub will not come off it moves about a 1/16 of an inch. Anything body have any suggestions im all ears. Help a newbie out whos trying to learn as i go.