1942 WC 3/4ton 4x4. Multiple start-up problems.

[Meadows39-45]

Hello everyone,

Thank you for allowing us onto your forum (father and son team here).

We recently had to remove the head of the engine as we were running on 3.5 cylinders (2 had no compression at all, 1 had 30%) Upon doing this, checking/replacing the valves, renewing the head gasket and a general clean up. We have put everything back together and it would apear nothing works.

We can not get a spark anywhere, yet have 6volts(still a 6volt system) running from battery - switch - coil - distributor. The spark leads are all new and have continuity.

Thus far we have:
Replaced the coil
replaced the points
checked the timing
replaced the coil again
checked for a spark at the plugs(just in case we are not seeing one in the distributor)

We are now at a loss...

Please help us, we are going to tow it to shows soon making the engine noise with an iphone.

Many thanks in advance.

Andrew/Geoff.

[fred ransome]

That your truck is a 6v vs 12v is not an issue. This may seem too simple but did you put the rotor back into the distributor?

I would open the distributor. Remove the high tension lead from the distributor cap. Place the lead end near a good ground. Rotate the engine until the points are closed. Manually open and close the points. You should see a spark from the high tension lead end to the ground. No spark means a bad coil. If you see a spark then you have a good coil and the problem is downstream from that. Bad distributor cap, bad rotor, bad spark plug wires. Don't leave the points closed for very long; it could cause the coil to overheat.

Do you have a 6V coil or 12V?

[motto]

Could be a faulty condenser.

David

[Ray Edsall]

G,Day If every thing else fails ,that has been suggested . pull the distributor out and turn it 180 degrees . Put it back in and give it a go . When you replaced the dissy you might have inadvertantly put it back in , 180 degrees out . Ray

[fred ransome]

Ray, if the distributor was 180 degrees out of phase wouldn't a spark still occur? Just not at the right time. I believe the author said the was no spark.

[Gordon_M]

Welcome in both.

The 6 volt system isn't the issue, but when you only have six to start with, anything at all can cause your machine not to start.

First point - did you actually remove the distributor body? If you did, take it out again and do a by-the-book re-installation to get the timing right.

If you haven't taken the dizzy out, then there is a high resistance somewhere. Either your brand new condenser is junk ( not rare at all ... ) or your points metalwork was coated for preservation, and when you put them in they are not making a circuit through the distributor body.

If you can't get it to fire up, try towing it in gear with the ignition on to see if you can get it to cough or run. If timing might be the issue - fire extinguisher handy too.

Finally fuel filter clean out, fuel hose replacement, carb check that it is getting fuel

[Ian Jamieson]

Hi Guys,
so reading between the lines suggests the engine was running, albeit only on 3.5 cylinders, before you did the head gasket and valves. SO it stands to reason that something has changed during the work you have done.

If you did not remove the distributor that you can probably discount that as being the problem. As a starting point, check that you have 6 volts at the + side of the coil with a multimeter. Repeat on the - side. The - (or negative) side should be connected to the distributor. Now recheck that voltage with the engine cranking on the starter. If the voltage drops below 4.5 volts then I suspect you have some earthing (grounding) issues.

If you have good voltage, then do the manual opening trick with the points as mentioned above. You should be able to get a spark about 1/2" long doing this.

Now have a close look at the points, as Gordon suggested points often have a preservative coating applied, this needs to be removed with a solvent before installation. I assume you have set the points to 0.020" with the points fully open? Now make sure the points actually close (don't ask how I know this trick ). Inspect the underside of the distributor cap and look for hair line cracks, these can direct the spark to ground. Don't forget to check the carbon brush in the centre of the cap and the pick up brush on the rotor. Also if the rotor is cracked then the spark will ground through the distributor shaft. My bet is you have dislodged a connection to the coil or distributor during the head and valve job.

Cheers

Ian

[Meadows39-45]

Hi gents, sorry for the delay just got back off holiday.Thank you one and all for your suggestions, some I had tried with no luck, but still some tips to try, thank you. Will let you know how it goes.Keep them rolling all the best, Geoff

[Tony B]

Try the obvious, if the engine turns over, make sure you have a good earth,

[Kaegi]

does it fire with starting fluid?